I have a pretty good digital camera, and up to this point I haven't had complaints about photos.

I'm not using 680 x 400 something anymore

I am using SQ1 2048 x 1536
then there is also HQ 3072 x 2304 and SHQ 3072 x2304 - haven't used those yet ever

But on the shop where you have to take photos from every side, maybe I'm standing too far away. I took the photos from a distance to get the whole wall in and used the second 1080 thing. There's one notch higher I could use too. The camera actually slows down and takes about 5 seconds to finish the photo. I thought it came out prety good. They thought it was a terrible photo, and took off a point or so. The camera also has an enlargement thing on it which I used inside and those came out blurry and too light.

What am I doing wrong ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/2012 03:25PM by shoppinalong.

How old is your camera? What type is it?

I have an old Olympus that is 12 years old, still works and I still use it today! People laugh at me, but that camera has taken over 10,000 pics and still going strong!

what brand is your camera?

I use a canon. Been using same one for a few years. Actually going to buy a new one soon, not because the camera isn't doing it's job but because the buttons are not always in a working mood lately.

I'm looking at either the new 110 or sx260. Both with decent optical zooms and wide lenses so I can capture more of an area in one photo for a point and shoot. And most important to me, no touch screen!

As far as taking quality pictures everytime, try to take the pictures at around a 5-6megapixel resolution. This will give you an acceptable picture, and you will not need to resize it for ANY msc. They all accept them at this size despite what their directions may sometimes say.

I'm not sure what you mean by the second 1080 thing? Are these closeup pictures? Exterior photos? Closeup should always be taken using macro mode. It eliminates any blur and great for receipt taking or those famous upclose food pics.

If you provide alittle more detail I can better direct you.

Thanks Tech,

camera has 7 megapixel - zoom in can be up to 3 sq times that I use for close-up
but apparently not wide lens

what setting should I use for exterior?

what setting for interior ?

maybe part of the problem is that their program doesn't want jpg but tif.

never had any complaints if I can upload to jpg program
I'm not using 680 x 400 something anymore

I am using SQ1 2048 x 1536
then there is also HQ 3072 x 2304 and SHQ 3072 x2304 - haven't used those yet ever

Actually its a pretty fancy camera and I dont know how to use all its functions as well as they could be used. Found "maccro" which I havent used,and will try.
Has built in guidelines..but who can understand em? duh

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/2012 03:33PM by shoppinalong.

I use a Canon Rebel XT DSLR for all my shops. It's a big camera and a bit cumbersome but takes great photos. If I was to buy a new camera now I'd probably get a Sony Oneshot or something similar and less heavy

Does your camera have a "program" mode, which would be "p" on the dial? That will configure the camera for you. It sounds like you might have set the aperture very small, which will require a much longer exposure time, and blurriness. If you let the camera decide for you, it usually picks the best parameters.

My old camera only has 2 megapixals...lol..

If I were you, I would take "practice shots" at home, until you get the results you need. Start with objects and move outside and take building shots.

What are you taking pictures of mostly?

Spend some time finding the "best" settings that work for you.

I always take photos from a distance and then rework them on my computer if I need to focus in on something, rather than using a zoom feature on the camera. I, too, take all of my photos at 5mp and never had any problems either cropping a large picture, with the camera itself, or with any msc.

shoppinalong Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have a pretty good digital camera, and up to
> this point I haven't had complaints about photos.
>
> I'm not using 680 x 400 something anymore
>
> I am using SQ1 2048 x 1536
> then there is also HQ 3072 x 2304 and SHQ 3072
> x2304 - haven't used those yet ever
>

i've altered my default camera settings, although i strictly photograph indoor documents (such as business cards). i'm new at this myself, so please take my comments with a grain of salt and test these settings outside at home before visiting a shop location.

-

1. the 'ISO sensitivity' setting increases clarity more effectively than high pixelation, although it must be used in accordance with the zoom. the lower the 'ISO sensitivity' setting, the greater the clarity. my 'ISO sensitivity' setting is at the lowest setting (10) to read indoor document texts. of course, don't take my word for it. you'd have to actually experiment with the 'ISO sensitivity' settings outside.

my theory (but i'm not sure) is that blurry pictures are largely the result of an excessive number of sequential camera shots actually grafted over each other. hence, the camera may actually be taking several actual shots per individual final picture, according to a speed index. the slower the camera takes the shots, the more blurry the final individual picture may be. this may be important with moving objects or the subtle movement of a jittery camera hand.

2. the 'zoom' affects how close or far the distance of the object will appear. too close or too far will appear blurry. you might experimentally vary the zoom for practice outside at home on a single object (let's say a car or tree) if you're not sure.

3. the 'brightness' setting will affect how bright or dark a picture is. i've increased the 'brightness' setting on my camera to slightly offset the occasional dark picture. for clarity purposes, a slightly bright picture is better than a slightly dark picture. especially if already blurry.

4. the 'black/white' setting versus the 'color' setting may enhance contrast, and thus the illusion of clarity. higher contrast allows you to more effectively differentiate dark/light variations within a single picture. of course, some companies/clients may not accept black/white outdoor pictures, but the black/white setting is often good for photographing indoor business cards.

-

now what i've just offered you here is a rather complex equation, so you would have to actually experiment with several settings at once. the answer to your question is not merely singular. this is why good photographers are rare. they have to be mathematicians. and i've not used my camera for more than a year now.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/03/2012 04:16AM by vince.

StacyP Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Does your camera have a "program" mode, which
> would be "p" on the dial? That will configure the
> camera for you. It sounds like you might have set
> the aperture very small, which will require a much
> longer exposure time, and blurriness. If you let
> the camera decide for you, it usually picks the
> best parameters.

I decided to ty it your way and put on auto.
photos came out much better without auto.

vince Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> shoppinalong Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I have a pretty good digital camera, and up to
> > this point I haven't had complaints about
> photos.
> >
> > I'm not using 680 x 400 something anymore
> >
> > I am using SQ1 2048 x 1536
> > then there is also HQ 3072 x 2304 and SHQ 3072
> > x2304 - haven't used those yet ever
> >
>
> i've altered my default camera settings, although
> i strictly photograph indoor documents (such as
> business cards). i'm new at this myself, so
> please take my comments with a grain of salt and
> test these settings outside at home before
> visiting a shop location.
>
> -
>
> 1. the 'ISO sensitivity' setting increases clarity
> more effectively than high pixelation, although it
> must be used in accordance with the zoom. the
> lower the 'ISO sensitivity' setting, the greater
> the clarity. my 'ISO sensitivity' setting is at
> the lowest setting (10) to read indoor document
> texts. of course, don't take my word for it.
> you'd have to actually experiment with the 'ISO
> sensitivity' settings outside.
>
> my theory (but i'm not sure) is that blurry
> pictures are largely the result of an excessive
> number of sequential camera shots actually grafted
> over each other. hence, the camera may actually
> be taking several actual shots per individual
> final picture, according to a speed index. the
> slower the camera takes the shots, the more blurry
> the final individual picture may be. this may be
> important with moving objects or the subtle
> movement of a jittery camera hand.
>
> 2. the 'zoom' affects how close or far the
> distance of the object will appear. too close or
> too far will appear blurry. you might
> experimentally vary the zoom for practice outside
> at home on a single object (let's say a car or
> tree) if you're not sure.
>
> 3. the 'brightness' setting will affect how bright
> or dark a picture is. i've increased the
> 'brightness' setting on my camera to slightly
> offset the occasional dark picture. for clarity
> purposes, a slightly bright picture is better than
> a slightly dark picture. especially if already
> blurry.
>
> 4. the 'black/white' setting versus the 'color'
> setting may enhance contrast, and thus the
> illusion of clarity. higher contrast allows you
> to more effectively differentiate dark/light
> variations within a single picture. of course,
> some companies/clients may not accept black/white
> outdoor pictures, but the black/white setting is
> often good for photographing indoor business
> cards.
>
> -
>
> now what i've just offered you here is a rather
> complex equation, so you would have to actually
> experiment with several settings at once. the
> answer to your question is not merely singular.
> this is why good photographers are rare. they
> have to be mathematicians. and i've not used my
> camera for more than a year now.

Thanks Vince.

I've had this camera for awhile and have had good success with it . A lot of what you speak about, light, dark, contrast is overcome with the wonderful progam
that comes with the camera after downloading.

I do think there's a problem with close up blurriness and sometimes the shaky hand syndrome, which is why the slow function ignores the shakies in distant photos quite well.

Mostly I take the photos without flash, but now when I tried the automatic function it put the flash back on and helluva time to get it turned off again.

It came with a book that tells you everything ----now if I could just find that book!